April 26th, 2010 by Dawn Becker
Swimming through the deluge of Japanese restaurants we have in Toronto can be daunting. There are literally hundreds of sushi places to choose from with new ones popping up every day. The best way to wade through is to ask yourself what your expectations are. Is price a factor? Because, unless you happen on a gem, you usually get what you pay for and so you need to decide accordingly. Are you looking for something more traditional? Are you looking for atmosphere? Or an expanded menu beyond the raw selections and maki sushi rolls? Or is fast-food style fine with you?
I’ve reviewed two of my favourite places here, Guu Izakaya Toronto and Tokyo Kitchen. They’re both excellent examples of different styles of Japanese restaurants in Toronto. As an izakaya, Guu offers plenty of atmosphere and entertainment with the communal tables and shouted greetings, along with a great variety of menu offerings. Tokyo Kitchen’s menu is more traditional in spirit, providing many options you don’t get elsewhere such as the popular Japanese-style curry. Plus their lunch specials won’t break the bank.
Recently, I went to Ichiriki located on Bloor Street just east of Yonge and I’m happy to conclude that it is n my list of top go-to Japanese places. The first time, I went during lunch with one of my clients at Rogers. Their office is located close by. It had a suit and tie feel to the place then, mostly because the lunch crowd comes from the surrounding business towers. Ichiriki featured standard bento box lunch specials and while it was good, it kind of slipped my mind these past years, as it didn’t make a lasting impression then.
A couple of years later, I went with Martin – I just posted about his 30th birthday party – who loves the raw fish at Ichiriki, and not because he lives across the street, though I’m sure they know him well by now. On another occasion, while dining at Cava, I sat beside this intriguingly obsessive couple who talked about all of their favourite food places, including Ichiriki and more importantly told me about the Chef’s love of jazz. When you walk in, it’s hard not to notice this, considering it plays beautifully in the background and the Chef even has a wall of photos devoted to showcasing these musicians.
I went again this week, having just missed the latest Jazz Dinner held on April 17, 2010 where they bring in musicians to play after your meal. It’s a wonderful idea, a starter of finely orchestrated Japanese dishes followed by a symphony of jazz to digest on as you sip on a glass of sake.
On our latest visit, we tried a number of the Chef’s Recommendations and to our delight, they were all hits. They included:
Tororo (Grated Taro Potato) with Raw Quail Egg ($5.50) shown above topped with a dribble of soy sauce.
I can say with confidence that tororo is not for everyone. But those of us who are fans will appreciate what a real treat this gruel-like looking dish is when we can get our hands on it.
Maguro with Tororo or Fresh Tuna with Grated Taro Potato ($9.00) again with the self-administered soy sauce topping.

My favourite Chef’s Recommendation is the Maguro with Natto or Fresh Tuna with Fermented Soy Bean ($9.00) above. Again, the strong scent and sticky texture of the natto, means that this dish will not have the broadest appeal. To me, I am wishing I could eat some right now!
We inhaled the Mushroom Tempura ($5.00) before the camera could come out but sometimes that happens. The enjoyment of the dining experience will always be my first priority and if that means I can only describe it to you without a visual, well that’s how it has to be. Some dishes should really be eaten upon arrival and the batter of the fried tempura mushrooms, a mix of enoki and king oyster, was so light and crisp it begged to be consumed while hot.
An order of kaki fry which consisted of panko-crusted medium plump oysters came to the table steaming hot right out of the fryer. The accompanying tonkatsu sauce – a worcestershire-based sauce shown top right – was too thick and cloying for the delicate bivalves so I enjoyed mine with a simple squeeze of lemon to ensure I was getting full oyster flavour.
We had a large selection of raw fish including the sushi and sashimi set ($19.00) plus fresh lobes of uni (sea urchin gonads), ikura (salmon roe) and a type of yellow tail (not hamachi as they were sold out by this time) to name a few, and a savoury spicy salmon hand roll that makes my mouth water to think of it. The nori was super crisp and the crunch with each bite worked well to contrast the softness of the minced salmon and spicy sauce mixture. Julian enjoyed it so much he ordered another one for dessert.
Talking about dessert, we were treated to a complimentary bowl of ice cream which I believe is par for the dinner course. We tried ginger, red bean and green tea ice cream. The ginger ice cream was creamy with a mild flavour that contained ginger chunks which were happily not as sweet as your average crystallized ginger, but similar. The red bean ice cream was my favourite.
Leaning back in my chair, sipping on sake, listening to the rhythms of the sultry jazz tunes in the background with some of my favourite dining companions, that is what I call a sweet ending.