January 27th, 2011 by Dawn Becker

These days most people seem to be grumbling about the dreaded frigid cold weather. I personally think newcomers to Canada shouldn’t be granted citizenship until they’ve passed a required minimum number of hours complaining about the weather.

Being born and raised in Vancouver, I do remember the beautifully clear summer days spent wasting away leaning against a log on Kitsilano beach with my high school buddies, but I recall many more bone-chilling, rainy, depression-inducing grey days. So my answer to kick the cold, as it almost always is for any problem, is to eat well and drink even more.

This week I was fortunate enough to have some friends over for a simple and luxurious meal of steamed lobster with some ginger fried rice and a refreshing sprout salad lightly dressed with sesame oil and soy sauce. When you’re short on time or don’t like boiling the lobsters yourself, you can stop at Mike’s Fish Market and pick up lobsters that have been cooked for you and just heat (steam them or warm in an oven) and serve.

To accompany this, we tried two wines from Ontario, a Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay (ours was a 2008) and a Generation Seven 2009 Red. This Chardonnay was not overwhelming in “oakiness” which often puts me off this variety. In fact, it was just the right pairing and we all agreed this wine would go well with any seafood dish. And don’t be put off having a chilled Chardonnay on a wintry day. The clarified butter sauce dripping down your elbows will warm you right up.

I really like the Generation Seven story and a few of things you should know about them are here. I’m still looking for the right type of cheese (maybe truffle-infused cheese) to bring out the best of the flavours in the red we tried and will probably need some help from the guys at Chris’ Cheesemongers to make the right fit so another trip to the market this Saturday.

And if you’re looking for a fun escape this weekend, check out the final days of the Niagara Icewine Festival. I can’t think of a better reason to brace the cold than to sip on the sweet benefits that this season provides in our local form of liquid gold.

March 17th, 2010 by Dawn Becker

My friend Richard Willet is the Vice President of Food & Beverage at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre (MTCC), Canada’s largest trade show and convention site. You can read how serendipitous our first meeting was in my previous post. Since we met, Richard and I have dined at Guu Izakaya Toronto, attended the Terroir symposium and the latest, an invitation to attend the MTCC’s North American Wine Council. Richard wasn’t able to attend but I was thrilled to participate, which for many would be considered a true once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Imagine having a guided tour through a blind tasting of 117 wines (plus 3 Zinfandels that we just couldn’t get through). Read 120 wines in one sitting! I’m still flabbergasted that there were so many options to try. Above, one of several tables that featured the wine bottles for us to peruse after the tasting.

The wine tasting was led by Jamie Drummond. He’s been a sommelier for nearly 20 years including the Granite Club and the defunct but always memorable Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar (Wine Bar as it is now called has new owners). Now, Jamie is the director of Good Food Revolution and when you read his blog you’ll instantly realize you’ve got the wrong job. Jamie walked us through the various wine flights keeping his comments at our entry level. The first thing he told us was there’s no right or wrong when judging the wine. This put us instantly at ease. We started with a Pinot Grigio wine flight, pictured above. The blue chicken bucket pictured beside the glasses acts as the spittoon. If you don’t spit you’ll never make it through the entire tasting and I didn’t want to be on the floor at 4 in the afternoon.

Here’s what the set up looks like for the Sauvignon Blanc wine flight, and it’s proof that I did not crash the party. While tasting each variety, we recorded our rating for each glass of wine based on aroma, taste and finish, out of ten. All our scores were calculated and we received a copy of the group totals so we could see which ones were the most popular. Some of the more interesting tasting notes I recorded included a Pinot Grigio that tasted “like my grandmother’s sock drawer”. I later realized the flavour was reminiscent of moth balls. I also discovered I do not like the green, viney taste of the Gamay varieties pictured above. We smelled acetone (as in nail polish remover), caramel, citrus, nuts, miscellaneous berries and even gasoline. There was one chardonnay that was so smokey it tasted like “licking a hearth”. After three hours, my tongue felt numb and my nasal passages were stuffed from the histamines. I had a greater appreciation of what it takes to be a sommelier. To be honest, it started to feel a bit like work a third of the way through. No complaints. I like to work. How sommeliers keep their olfactory senses and taste buds sharp is a wonder though.

And to thank us for our efforts, the MTCC served palate cleansing chilled beer and delicious appetizers (some are shown below) after the tasting was complete along with a parting gift of ice wine. Thanks to Richard and the MTCC for letting me be a part of this.

Smoked salmon on cucumber slices topped with whipped cream cheese, endive and chive.

Tender fish cakes topped with a type of tomato salsa.

Goat cheese and arugula crostini.

December 17th, 2009 by Dawn Becker

I headed up to L’Unita for my much anticipated dinner with Richard. I met Richard at the outdoor lounge at Voglie one night this summer on $5 Friday martini night. These martinis are seriously toxic for that price which is actually a compliment. Generous pours and unique creations though many are sweet and I don’t enjoy that personally but all the “girls” like them. I like a classic gin martini, dry with olives, and please don’t shake my Bombay. Just a little swirl in the shaker to cool off my gin so I can have a crystal clear drink. Heaven. And that’s what I got when I ordered it at L’Unita.

We then ordered a series of appetizers which I thought were adequate. The housemade ricotta would have been nice served warm which would allude that it was just made even if it was that morning. The crab bruschetta was a little too creamy for my taste and the northernwoods mushrooms were poorly salted but as Richard and I are both funghi fans we didn’t complain… much. We also had some very good sardine crostini. The sardines were filleted and not a bone could be found and the crostini so thin that it provided just the right amount of crisp in your mouth. Lobster risotto and braised short ribs followed and while they weren’t bad, they didn’t knock my socks off. Ordinary I’m afraid. But remember I’m lucky to have experienced some outstanding food from complex creations to perfectly simple homestyle food and my tastes may be more, well picky. I think most people will enjoy L’Unita but I won’t be rushing back with so many other choices. Take Mistura, for instance, which is just around the corner. One time I was there Chef and co-owner, Massimo Capra was walking the floor. I really like that.

Richard also ordered a lovely Montepulciano, not to be mistaken with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which is also good but not in the same league. I’m sorry I can’t remember which one we had but it must have cost half the bill. I haven’t told you anything about Richard yet and I won’t say too much today. As a new friend, out of respect, I would like to make sure he’s cool with what I divulge. (To my old friends, too bad. It’s all coming out and you can consider yourselves fair game!) I can tell you that Richard is an absolute dream as we are both very much into food. We have similar tastes and preferences and his company is so easy and fun with each bite seeming like an adventure. Richard has experienced some seriously outstanding meals through his work and personal travels.

The first time I met him at Voglie, he said he was going to Spain so I told him I would love to go to San Sebastian in Spain. Wouldn’t you know that this was on his agenda. I told him about Restaurant Arzak which is owned by Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, an adorable father and daughter duo. You can see them on page 40-41 of My Last Supper, 50 Great Chefs and Their Final Meals by Melanie Dunea. As an aside, this would make a great Christmas gift for the foodie on your list. I already have it so this is not a hint, my friends.

And how lucky is Richard, when a last minute cancellation comes in the day he calls Arzak. Richard and his friend closed the place down with a 20 (or was that 25) course tasting menu. I saw the pictures. To die for. Upon his return he sent me a picture of himself with Chef Elena. Jealous much?

For my recommendation, sitting on the table at L’Unita is a card with a bottle of Chateau des Charmes Ice Wine. He’s a classy dude. And his note, which I will share because it encapsulates his being.

“Dawn: To the start of a great culinary journey. Thank you for Arzak. Richard”

So to end this great night of food stories, Richard invited me back to his beautiful home for a last glass of champagne. Instead he produces a Tignanello (lovingly called Tig by those who, well, love it) and I’m deliriously happy. He whips up an instant cheese board – I would guess a Brillat Savarin – but my head is beginning to get foggy at this point, with dark rye crisps studded with raisins, fresh figs and a most delicious lavender honey. I am spoiled. With friends like this I will never be hungry again.

December 17th, 2009 by Dawn Becker

Last night was a most delicious night with friends I am getting to know better. Karen K came to my condo to have the five cent tour and a quick snack before I met up with Richard for dinner at L’Unita. Karen is an old friend who was always traveling for work and otherwise, and a person I’ve never spent enough time with. She just bought a condo on the west end and I couldn’t be happier that she’s settling in Toronto because we’ll get to really build that friendship. Karen has many hats including publisher of Corporate Knights, director of Waterlution, filmmaker and more. She’s very dynamic and genuine and I have been quoted to say that she would make a fabulous president for the United States. No expectations here, huh?

After a quick tour we settled in with a glass of Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir that I had chilled slightly as suggested on the label and we dished over precious girl gossip. Chilling this wine made it brilliant and even though it’s cold outside it’s always warm in here so the wine was perfectly refreshing to start the night.

Before moving on to a more luscious glass of Ngatarawa Stables Merlot, I pulled out a small round of Saint Morgon, a soft French cheese that has a creamy texture pefect on a crusty baguette which I purchased still warm from the oven earlier that day. I made a small tapas style dish of shrimp and squid sauteed with garlic and olive oil topped with capers, a sprinkle of salt and chilli flakes and finished with a fresh squeeze of lemon, dipping more of that crusty bread to soak up all the salty juices. We ate it too quickly before I could remember to photograph it. Katie is coming over Friday. I may recreate it then so I can post the photo.

Shrimp and Squid Tapas

2 tbsp olive oil

8 headless shrimp, deveined and butterflied

2 headless squid, cleaned and sliced into 1” rings

4 cloves of garlic, chopped

dried hot red-pepper flakes

salt, to taste

2 lemon wedges

1 tsp capers

Heat oil in a pan on medium-high until hot but not smoking. Sautee shrimp. Turn shrimp over and add the squid rings, garlic and red-pepper flakes, and cook until shrimp are pink and just cooked through. Add salt and squeeze the lemon wedges over the shrimp and squid. Toss in the capers and remove from heat. Serve immediately with plenty of bread.